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You cannot escape the circle of life in the Serengeti. Not only will Elton John play uncontrollably on repeat in your brain...but you quickly see, very vividly, the harsh reality of life and death on the beautiful savanna. Within five minutes of entering the Serengeti National Park we witnessed our first wildlife sighting - blood-soaked hyenas finishing off a kill along with hungry vultures patiently lined up to swoop in and steal whatever is left. This is not a zoo.
Over the course of our three days within the park, the same scenario played out in front of us over and over again - predators and prey looking to survive amidst a harsh but absolutely stunning landscape. But before I get too deep into the numerous animal sightings we experienced, I should really reiterate just how incredibly beautiful the landscape is here. Everything is tinged with gold and set against an impossibly blue sky. The savanna is grassy and flat with a sprinkling of acacia trees and oasis-like "kopjes" (unusual, tall rock formations). Creeks weave through the park providing watering holes (and lunch spots) for the animals who call the park home and also those who are passing through. It's almost as if the landscape is in some way another animal we are tracking - a true predator who gives with water and fresh grass but can take away just as fast, a beauty we hope to capture on film but somehow fails to resonate in the same way it does in real life.
We were extremely blessed to be traveling during the start of The Great Migration - one of the most amazing wonders of the natural world. Annually, over 2.5 million wildebeast travel 800 km's across East Africa to reach their final destination in Kenya's Maasai Mara. We witnessed thousands of wildebeast marching in herds across the Serengeti in long, organized lines just like soldiers going to war. Traveling in large packs, occasionally with zebra friends, keeps predators at bay and helps to protect their newborns (of which only a third survive the journey).
We were also enchanted by zebras who stand in the most amazing and romantic formation in order to protect each other from approaching predators. Resting their heads on each others shoulders, they "have each others backs". It is a very moving sight to see and I think we all could learn a little something from these zebras.
The giraffe are plentiful and never fail to amaze with their elegance.
Lions are incredible beasts. Confident, powerful and beautiful. We had many sightings of males, females, baby cubs and even the extremely rare, tree-climbing lions. This included an amazing chase down of a zebra pack. Unfortunately the lion was not able to catch even a single zebra, as the zebra's stripes cause confusion for lions. But what a thrill to see the lion attack and the zebras scream and scatter.
We were lucky enough to see lots of incredible animals and birds including - gazelles, impala, dikdik, a leopard, hippos, an eagle, vultures and elephants while travelling on the dusty, bumpy roads in the park. We even got a flat tire at one point and left the car to change it, though we fortunately didn't encounter any animals while we did so.
Our 2 night stay was just on the outskirts of the Ikoma entrance to the park at the Ikoma Wildcamp - an incredible Hemingway-esque experience as part of our safari package with Zara Tours. Our small tented room featured mosquito-netted twin beds, a full tented bathroom and (much welcomed) hot shower. We zipped down our tent panels at night to let the cool night breeze blow through. Hyenas could be heard just outside the tent in the early mornings and we were advised to stay close to the hotel paths as there were many predators - including lions - living in close proximity. After our evening dinners in the open air lodge perched up on a kopje, we were escorted back to our tent by a local tribesman who carried a spear to protect us from the unseen danger. Dinners were wonderful...but only almost as good as the stunning sunset view from the lodge. I was able to chill some white wine in the hotel fridge that we drank with our dinners while our cameras and phones charged at a make-shift charging station.
Our experience was truly amazing and I would highly recommend that a Serengeti component be included with any safari itinerary in Tanzania. It is truly like no other place I have visited. It is a privilege to see such a wild and pure place still on this earth - a privilege that those in the future may not even have. Hopefully I can visit it again some day soon.
Over the course of our three days within the park, the same scenario played out in front of us over and over again - predators and prey looking to survive amidst a harsh but absolutely stunning landscape. But before I get too deep into the numerous animal sightings we experienced, I should really reiterate just how incredibly beautiful the landscape is here. Everything is tinged with gold and set against an impossibly blue sky. The savanna is grassy and flat with a sprinkling of acacia trees and oasis-like "kopjes" (unusual, tall rock formations). Creeks weave through the park providing watering holes (and lunch spots) for the animals who call the park home and also those who are passing through. It's almost as if the landscape is in some way another animal we are tracking - a true predator who gives with water and fresh grass but can take away just as fast, a beauty we hope to capture on film but somehow fails to resonate in the same way it does in real life.
We were extremely blessed to be traveling during the start of The Great Migration - one of the most amazing wonders of the natural world. Annually, over 2.5 million wildebeast travel 800 km's across East Africa to reach their final destination in Kenya's Maasai Mara. We witnessed thousands of wildebeast marching in herds across the Serengeti in long, organized lines just like soldiers going to war. Traveling in large packs, occasionally with zebra friends, keeps predators at bay and helps to protect their newborns (of which only a third survive the journey).
We were also enchanted by zebras who stand in the most amazing and romantic formation in order to protect each other from approaching predators. Resting their heads on each others shoulders, they "have each others backs". It is a very moving sight to see and I think we all could learn a little something from these zebras.
The giraffe are plentiful and never fail to amaze with their elegance.
Lions are incredible beasts. Confident, powerful and beautiful. We had many sightings of males, females, baby cubs and even the extremely rare, tree-climbing lions. This included an amazing chase down of a zebra pack. Unfortunately the lion was not able to catch even a single zebra, as the zebra's stripes cause confusion for lions. But what a thrill to see the lion attack and the zebras scream and scatter.
We were lucky enough to see lots of incredible animals and birds including - gazelles, impala, dikdik, a leopard, hippos, an eagle, vultures and elephants while travelling on the dusty, bumpy roads in the park. We even got a flat tire at one point and left the car to change it, though we fortunately didn't encounter any animals while we did so.
Our 2 night stay was just on the outskirts of the Ikoma entrance to the park at the Ikoma Wildcamp - an incredible Hemingway-esque experience as part of our safari package with Zara Tours. Our small tented room featured mosquito-netted twin beds, a full tented bathroom and (much welcomed) hot shower. We zipped down our tent panels at night to let the cool night breeze blow through. Hyenas could be heard just outside the tent in the early mornings and we were advised to stay close to the hotel paths as there were many predators - including lions - living in close proximity. After our evening dinners in the open air lodge perched up on a kopje, we were escorted back to our tent by a local tribesman who carried a spear to protect us from the unseen danger. Dinners were wonderful...but only almost as good as the stunning sunset view from the lodge. I was able to chill some white wine in the hotel fridge that we drank with our dinners while our cameras and phones charged at a make-shift charging station.
Our experience was truly amazing and I would highly recommend that a Serengeti component be included with any safari itinerary in Tanzania. It is truly like no other place I have visited. It is a privilege to see such a wild and pure place still on this earth - a privilege that those in the future may not even have. Hopefully I can visit it again some day soon.
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