Pole, Pole

The woods are lovely, dark and deep.
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep.

Robert Frost said it better than I can.

The human body is an amazing thing. I had never hiked a day in my life and yet there I was, walking long distances uphill in the blistering heat and, somehow, succeeding at it. During my six day trek up the Marangu Route to the summit of Kilimanjaro, my body never once failed me. Sure there was some achy muscles, sore knees, a mild headache, a sunburn, and even a bit of the dreaded altitude sickness at the top. But these were warnings, designed to help me succeed; to pace myself. To go "pole, pole", as they say in Swahili.  But your body is only part of the challenge - I truly believe it is the strength of your mind that will ultimately decide your outcome. I had no business reaching the top of that mountain. Yet I did it, when others who were younger and stronger could not.

"Pole, pole" (pronounced pole-y, pole-y), is truly the mantra of any successful climb and translates to "slowly, slowly". You will hear your guides repeat it often on the mountain, reminding you to move slowly, pace yourself and take short breaks often. For me, "pole, pole" was also a state of mind - a slow and steady pace with clarity and calm. A reminder to enjoy the journey up and down, to appreciate the views and the experience - and not only focus on reaching the top.

I have decided to split my posts about my Kilimanjaro Climb into two parts - The Climb and The Summit. Although it is indeed one mountain, the days leading up to Kibo are remarkably different than the ascent night. One like marching to war, the other a full-scale battle. Stay tuned for my Summit post.

Day one was full of excitement but the reality of the challenge ahead quickly set in. We started with an hour long drive from Moshi to Marangu with our support team. Tricia (my cousin, and fellow climber) and I would be climbing with the support of a Guide (Raymond), Assistant Guide (Shawn), 4 Porters, a Cook and a Waiter. Other teams were also traveling on our route and we were fortunate to get to know a few of them along the way, including a nice couple from Toronto. 

As soon as we arrived at the entrance gate, I realized one of the gaiters I rented was broken. Good thing I packed duct tape in my day-pack! A quick MacGuyver and it was as good as new. How smart was I for having duct tape in my pack? Actually, not very smart at all. In fact, it was a horrible decision as I quickly realized my day-pack was WAY too heavy. Our first day's walk was hard and hot - straight up hill through a meandering path of natural steps for six hours. My day-pack was at least 10 pounds and I had my SLR strapped around neck. What an idiot, I was. But it was a good, much needed, rude awakening of what was ahead of us. Fortunately, our frequent breaks allowed us to appreciate the incredible beauty of this portion of the climb, a rain forest filled with Colobus Monkeys, waterfalls, beautiful ferns and hanging moss. We made it to our first stop at Mandara Huts in time for a quick rest, wash-up and a delicious dinner of soup, steak and fried potatoes in the lodge.

 

The next day we seemed to find our groove. As the landscape started to change, so did our confidence. The rain forest became a moorland of long grasses and we walked a little taller. I suddenly felt like I could do it. Our 12.5 km walk to Horombo Huts was challenging and hot. Note to fellow climbers: do not forget to re-apply your sunscreen, like I did. You do not want to suffer a sunburn in a cabin on a below freezing night. We checked in at Horombo for a two night stay in another log-cabin-style, a-frame hut well above the clouds at 3721 metres / 12,208 feet. The following day involved a 5 hour acclimatization hike to nearby Zebra Rocks (elevation 4048 metres / 13,281 feet) where we had a beautiful view of what lay ahead of us at Kibo. Our time at Horombo was incredible with beautiful sunsets, a sky full of stars, great food from our cook and a chance to read the amazing, motivating messages we were receiving from our family and friends, as the mobile reception is very good there.

With the seemingly easy part behind us, we braced for an extraordinarily challenging day ahead that started with a wind-whipping 9.5 km trek across a seemingly endless alpine desert to Kibo huts. This walk took about 6 hours with some breaks along the way for lunch and water. We were now past the last water point where our team would have collected our water from the mountain stream to boil for us to drink. I started to experience a small but lingering headache, a reminder that at over 4714 metres / 15,466 feet, you must drink lots of water and "pole, pole" is the only way to go.

We arrived at Kibo Huts and were happy to find out that our Guide, Raymond, had secured us a private room to rest for a few short hours before our ascent that evening. But there was no rest for me with the shadow of Kibo looming above us. And though we were already beyond exhausted from our challenging day - we had no idea just how much more difficult things were about to get that very night. Please see my following post for the rest of this story...

Mount Kilimanjaro

Right before I left for Tanzania, I had a few moments of fear and doubt about the upcoming climb. There was definitely a "what was I thinking?" - when I started to worry about my health, my fears and the fact that I had pretty much told everyone I knew that I was going to do this.

For starters, I am an asthmatic. And while everything I had read told me that this was fine (and possibly an advantage at high altitudes), I still had a last minute worry that I had bitten off more than I could chew. I had  been training both informally (taking 10 km walks whenever possible) and formally (with a personal trainer three times a week) but at almost 40 years old now, I am certainly not in the best physical shape I have ever been in. I mean, this is a real mountain, not some sorta-challenging, cutesy tourist trek. On top of that, I am afraid of heights. I don't like roller coasters or skiing or driving along cliff sides. So picking a mountain climb for vacation is a pretty stupid idea to begin with. And then I go and tell everybody - blogging, posting on Facebook etc. Yeah, great plan.

That said, by the time we had arrived in Tanzania and enjoyed our week long safari, my fears had left me and I was filled with a surge of excitement to just give it my best shot, and if the mountain should spit me back out (like the roughly 60% of those who attempt it), well so be it.

The following posts will detail my time spent on the Marangu Route. In addition, I will also post some details on practical information related to planning and packing for the trip. I did a ton a research before the trip and have insight as to what worked / didn't work for me, and would love to share it with someone else who might be considering the same journey.

Ngorongoro and Tarangire

It is extremely important to find a compatible travel buddy. You may think you know someone before you leave, but travel abroad together for three weeks and you could quickly realize those charming quirks are actually seriously annoying. I think the same can be said about a tour guide. Though, in that circumstance, you are often left to the luck of the draw. Spending long, hot days in close quarters with anyone you don't gel with can have disastrous results.

It's no surprise that one of the major reasons our Safari experience in Tanzania was so wonderful was our amazing guide, Issa. His passion for his work and for sharing the beauty of his country definitely shone through as he showed us the sights across the Northern Safari circuit. From teaching us useful phrases in Swahili to making us laugh - Issa was a shining star in an already incredible experience. 

So when Issa wasn't his usual jovial self on the morning we were scheduled to depart the Serengeti, we were naturally concerned. Issa was very ill and suspected that he had contracted malaria. Putting our needs first, he had already made arrangements with a fellow guide and colleague, Roy, for us to continue our day while he drove himself to the nearest hospital for treatment. In a world where most people call in sick with a minor case of the sniffles, this man continued his work when faced with life-threatening illness. And when it was confirmed by doctors that he did indeed have malaria, he continued to work, meeting us that evening and continuing our safari without interruption. He is a very special person who I will not forget anytime soon.

We spent our day at Ngorongoro with Roy and his two safari clients, a friendly couple from Spain named Maria and Javier. It was actually quite fun to spend time with new friends and Roy did a great job of tracking, resulting in 2 amazing Rhino sightings among other countless birds and animals. I did not know much about Ngorongoro before my trip and was completely overwhelmed by just how gorgeous it is. So very different from the Serengeti - yet equally stunning. Formed 2.5 million years ago when a volcano imploded, this park is the word's biggest, intact caldera, with a 600 metre climb in and back out of the crater where there is over 300 square kilometres of lush, green grasslands filled with all kinds of wildlife. Once again...I'm not quite sure my photos will do this place justice.

Issa picked us back up on the road in Karatu, while Roy, Javier and Maria moved on for a night of camping and hunting with a San tribe. I wish we had of thought of that...what an amazing experience! We had one more safari day ahead of us at Tarangire National Park and a long drive back to Moshi. Tarangire is famous for it's elephant sightings, and although it took a long while for us to spot anything, we hit the jackpot near the end of our visit with plenty of very active elephants including a few adorable babies. We also got to see the incredible ancient baobab trees that dot the land here; some of them thousands of years old.

Our long drive back was broken up with a stop for lunch and a chance to pick up some fresh (processed that day!) coffee from a local plantation. The coffee ($5 US) was packaged in a clear plastic bag which I reinforced with several ziploc baggies before it's journey back home to Canada in my duffel. Amazingly, it arrived home (and through immigration) without any issue and I have enjoyed this absolutely delicious coffee every morning since I have returned.

Our safari was over and now the challenging part was about to begin. A good night's sleep was in order before tomorrow's adventure on Mount Kilimanjaro.

The Maasai

You can't help but be fascinated by what you see out the window of your vehicle as you make your way through safari country. And, if you are like me, you might feel a little worried that the real Tanzania is flashing by you at 80 kilometres per hour. It's a montage of an everyday life that's very different from home; so colourful; so honest. I treasure the moments where we stopped and interacted with locals - pulling over to pass out pencils or candy to children, buying fruits and vegetables from local women, sharing what was left of our lunches with hungry strangers passing by. And while I do know that the authenticity of these interactions is indeed tainted by the fact that we are a bunch of tourists in a safari vehicle, I still feel blessed to have had those experiences.

One of the most fascinating things to see were the Maasai tribesmen - regal, tall and easily spotted with their spears and tribal cloth. Though it wasn't on our itinerary, I asked if we could stop at a Maasai village and our tour guide, Issa, happily obliged. Again - I fully realize that this might not be the most authentic of encounters - but it was a welcome break from the air conditioned safety of our vehicle and a chance to learn about a way of life so different than our own.

We were warmly greeted by Paolo - one of the Chief's sons. Paolo - who was extremely well spoken and funny - let us know it would be $40 (for both of us) to visit, and that this money would be used to purchase water in the dry season and that the money is shared across multiple tribal villages, not just their own.  As we approached the village we were greeted by the entire tribe with singing and dancing - an unbelievable sight! We were even pulled in to dance with the women and adorned with beaded necklaces.

We were then escorted into the village, protected by a wall of acacia branches. Paolo introduced us to many of the tribes people and was sure to point out the single males who were trying to impress us with their jumping. Paolo also brought us into a home. Built from grass and cow dung the homes are small and contain two sleeping areas and a fire for cooking. (And no, the house surprisingly did not smell like cow dung). Paolo happily answered all of our stupid questions and told us much about the very traditional life he leads here. We gladly purchased some beautiful beaded jewelry made by the women in the tribe and then visited the nursery school, where only the youngest children are allowed to attend. The children were timid, polite, sweet...and seemed very excited to learn.

I know a lot of guidebooks might suggest skipping this in favour of a "real'" experience - but I am very glad I had the chance to do this and would recommend it to others. The money your pay (which, frankly, isn't much) goes to provide support for the most important of necessities in life, clean water. Just do keep in mind that you are not on safari - these are people who have welcomed you into their home. Show your respect with humility and an open mind. I carefully took photos - engaging with my subject and receiving their permission before shooting. Enjoy!

The Serengeti

You cannot escape the circle of life in the Serengeti. Not only will Elton John play uncontrollably on repeat in your brain...but you quickly see, very vividly, the harsh reality of life and death on the beautiful savanna. Within five minutes of entering the Serengeti National Park we witnessed our first wildlife sighting - blood-soaked hyenas finishing off a kill along with hungry vultures patiently lined up to swoop in and steal whatever is left. This is not a zoo.

Over the course of our three days within the park, the same scenario played out in front of us over and over again - predators and prey looking to survive amidst a harsh but absolutely stunning landscape. But before I get too deep into the numerous animal sightings we experienced, I should really reiterate just how incredibly beautiful the landscape is here. Everything is tinged with gold and set against an impossibly blue sky. The savanna is grassy and flat with a sprinkling of acacia trees and oasis-like "kopjes" (unusual, tall rock formations). Creeks weave through the park providing watering holes (and lunch spots) for the animals who call the park home and also those who are passing through. It's almost as if the landscape is in some way another animal we are tracking - a true predator who gives with water and fresh grass but can take away just as fast, a beauty we hope to capture on film but somehow fails to resonate in the same way it does in real life.

We were extremely blessed to be traveling during the start of The Great Migration - one of the most amazing wonders of the natural world. Annually, over 2.5 million wildebeast travel 800 km's across East Africa to reach their final destination in Kenya's Maasai Mara. We witnessed thousands of wildebeast marching in herds across the Serengeti in long, organized lines just like soldiers going to war. Traveling in large packs, occasionally with zebra friends, keeps predators at bay and helps to protect their newborns (of which only a third survive the journey).

We were also enchanted by zebras who stand in the most amazing and romantic formation in order to protect each other from approaching predators. Resting their heads on each others shoulders, they "have each others backs". It is a very moving sight to see and I think we all could learn a little something from these zebras. 

The giraffe are plentiful and never fail to amaze with their elegance.

Lions are incredible beasts. Confident, powerful and beautiful. We had many sightings of males, females, baby cubs and even the extremely rare, tree-climbing lions. This included an amazing chase down of a zebra pack. Unfortunately the lion was not able to catch even a single zebra, as the zebra's stripes cause confusion for lions. But what a thrill to see the lion attack and the zebras scream and scatter.

We were lucky enough to see lots of incredible animals and birds including - gazelles, impala, dikdik, a leopard, hippos, an eagle, vultures and elephants while travelling on the dusty, bumpy roads in the park. We even got a flat tire at one point and left the car to change it, though we fortunately didn't encounter any animals while we did so. 

Our 2 night stay was just on the outskirts of the Ikoma entrance to the park at the Ikoma Wildcamp - an incredible Hemingway-esque experience as part of our safari package with Zara Tours. Our small tented room featured mosquito-netted twin beds, a full tented bathroom and (much welcomed) hot shower. We zipped down our tent panels at night to let the cool night breeze blow through. Hyenas could be heard just outside the tent in the early mornings and we were advised to stay close to the hotel paths as there were many predators - including lions - living in close proximity. After our evening dinners in the open air lodge perched up on a kopje, we were escorted back to our tent by a local tribesman who carried a spear to protect us from the unseen danger. Dinners were wonderful...but only almost as good as the stunning sunset view from the lodge. I was able to chill some white wine in the hotel fridge that we drank with our dinners while our cameras and phones charged at a make-shift charging station.

Our experience was truly amazing and I would highly recommend that a Serengeti component be included with any safari itinerary in Tanzania. It is truly like no other place I have visited.  It is a privilege to see such a wild and pure place still on this earth - a privilege that those in the future may not even have. Hopefully I can visit it again some day soon.

Lake Manyara

Though I travel often, I still enjoy that moment when you realize how very far away from home you are. Not far away in a physical sense, but a place that feels far from everything you think you know. A place where people walk for miles just to collect a bucket of water from a murky pond and carry it back home to drink. A place where no one checks their phones during a meal. A place where you realize that no one gives a damn about whether Lindsay Lohan will go to jail or what that Kardashian woman named her baby, nor even has a clue who those people are. A place where, when asked about his family, a grown man will speak not only of his wife and children but of his brothers, sisters and parents too.

Africa is far away. And though I have already been on this continent four times in the last few years, I still felt that harsh, yet healthy, moment when I realize just how different my life at home is. Traveling with my cousin Tricia, a first-time visitor to Africa, also helped to illuminate the little things that make this continent so special. The minute we left our hotel on day one, we were thrust head first into the spectacle of colour, smell and sound that is Tanzania. The route, lined with the reddest earth, road-side vegetable stands and surrounded by endless crops of bright sunflowers was beautiful in a way that couldn't ever be captured in a photo, or even with these words for that matter. Swahili women in colourful prints and head wraps carry bunches of bananas or buckets of water on their heads and small children wave and smile as you pass. Motorcycles and bicycles pass carrying firewood, crates of eggs, or anything else they can fit on it. Oh, and the occasional giraffe is spotted chewing on trees off in the distance.

From our hotel in Moshi, the drive to our first destination at Lake Manyara took about three hours. We stopped en route to pick up some snacks and beer in Arusha and had a nice picnic lunch under a shady tree. In addition to purchasing some good and affordable South African wines, our stop for snacks yielded one of our favourite finds in all of Tanzania - home made potato chips! Not the greasy kind of chips you find back home - but home-fried yams. Hand packaged in a simple clear bag and completely grease-free, we looked for them in every store we came across.

Lake Manyara National Park in Northern Tanzania is set against the backdrop of The Great Rift Valley - an enormous fault line that runs all the way from Lebanon to Mozambique; a distance of 6600 km. The lake itself is large but shallow with a spectacular landscape featuring lush forests, waterfalls, grassy plains and swamp lands. Our first game viewing experience was good - with lots of animal sightings including elephants, zebra, dik diks, impala and a rhino. We also encountered many baboons who, fortunately, turned out to be a lot less friendly than the South African baboon I met here. We enjoyed our visit to this park. It is a true paradise, with the cleanest and freshest-smelling air. No chemically enhanced, air-freshening candle on the shelf of some North American grocery store could ever capture this kind of fragrance. And this where I had my first "far away" moment. Clean air. How lucky they are here.

After our long day, we made our way to the Highview Hotel for our first night's stay. We were happy to discover that the hotel was really lovely and had the most stunning views of the setting sun over the rolling hills below. Our included three-course dinner was also a pleasant surprise - avocado bruschetta, chicken stir-fry and an orange flavoured cake for dessert. But all that fresh air took it's toll (as did the 7 hour time difference) so we called it an early night and readied ourselves for tomorrow's journey to the Serengeti.